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Across the country, more towns, cities and even states are targeting pit bulls, Rottweilers and other dog breeds under increasingly restrictive "dangerous dog" laws. In Minnesota, state lawmakers are hearing a number of proposals that would ban certain breeds in the state, including one bill that would make it illegal for residents to own a Rottweiler, Pit Bull, Chow Chow, Akita or wolf hybrid. Meanwhile, members of the Forsyth County Commission in North Carolina are studying possible regulations for "aggressive" breeds such as German shepherds, Rottweilers, Doberman Pinchers and pit bulls. Similar legislation has been proposed at the state level in Tennessee and Mississippi, and at the local and county level in Oregon, Alabama, Arkansas and other states, according to the American Dog Owners Association.

Breed-specific legislation (also known as BSL) proposals are becoming a common presence in statehouses and city halls across America. Such legislation usually follows on the heels of a much publicized dog attack, and lawmakers claim that targeting specific dog-breeds will help remove dangerous animals from the community. But the effectiveness of BSL in curbing attacks by dangerous dogs is unclear, and the policies that determine what happens to pet owners who share their homes with a "dangerous" breed" vary in each community.

According to an article by Linda S. Weiss with the Animal Legal and Historical Center, BSL "is not an effective approach for regulating dogs' behavior in communities." Weiss goes on to write that bans on specific breeds are little more than comfort legislation and "do not act to effectively regulate the behavior of any breed or of dogs and their owners collectively." Additionally, breed-specific bans routinely face constitutional challenges, with decisions varying from state to state. A 1989 decision by the Kansas Supreme Court upheld a ordinance regulating ownership of pit bulls within a municipality, while a Massachusetts court in 1989 found that a law targeting pit bull ownership was unconstitutionally vague, according to Weiss.

What happens to happens to pet owners who care for pit bulls and other targeted breeds once legislation is passed also varies. Most breed-specific ordinances and legislation have some sort of grandfather clause, allowing owners to keep their dogs, but preventing the purchase or breeding of other dogs in the targeted breed. However, enforcing these laws is difficult, costly and time consuming: according to Weiss, a breed-specific ordinance in Cincinnati, Ohio was overturned after the city began enforcing the ordinance, which lead to "gridlock in the animal control and court systems."

Meanwhile, organizations like the American Kennel Club and the American Dog Owners Association are vocally opposed to BSL. According to the AKC's position paper on BSL, "We support laws that establish a fair process by which specific dogs are identified as ‘dangerous' based on stated, measurable actions—The American Kennel Club strongly opposes any legislation that determines a dog to be 'dangerous' based on specific breeds or phenotypic classes of dogs." The AKC and the ADOA also maintain "legislation watch" web sites, where dog owners can track pet-related legislation. Click here to view the ACK legislative alert page. Click here to view the ADOA legislative update page.

Conversely, many states are proposing legislation that would prohibit insurance companies from denying home owners insurance coverage or unfairly increasing rates based on the breeds of dogs living at the home. In New Jersey, state Assemblyman Niel Cohen is sponsoring legislation that would prohibit insurers from basing policy coverage and costs on the basis of the breed of dog kept on the property.

"In most cases involving a 'dangerous breed,' the owner is the one responsible for teaching the dog its aggressive or dangerous behavior," Cohen said in a statement regarding the legislation.

In general, cats live longer than dogs. The average life span of a housecat is about 12-15 years. Some cats are extremely healthy, living well into their 20s.

Cats grow old gracefully. As they grow older, they have a tendency to sleep more. An elderly cat generally spends most of his or her time sleeping on a couch, a comfortable chair, or on a blanket close to a heat source.

Older cats are less active and less playful than kittens and young cats. They are also more irritable. As cats get older, their organs function less efficiently. Degeneration of the kidneys, thyroid glands, pancreas and adrenal glands occurs, resulting in kidney failure, hyperthyroidism and diabetes. Their senses (sight, smell, and hearing) have a tendency to deteriorate as well.

Older cats need help with grooming. As cats get older, they groom themselves less, as well as less effectively. Longhaired cats are particularly bothered by coat problems. Their coats are often matted, causing severe skin irritations. If an elderly cat is unable to keep up with his or her grooming, human intervention may be necessary. Longhaired cats and shorthaired cats that do not groom themselves effectively should be brushed or combed twice a week.

Constipation is a common problem of older cats. It is often the result of a decrease in gastrointestinal tract motility. Hairballs can also cause constipation and very often they lead to intestinal impaction. Surgery is occasionally necessary in order to remove obstructive hairballs. Since hairballs are not easily regurgitated, preventative medication such as laxatives should be administered once a week. The use of a laxative is recommended for the prevention of intestinal obstruction, however if the laxative is given too frequently, it can interfere with intestinal absorption of vitamins and minerals.

The skin and nails of an older cat should be checked regularly. The skin should be checked for lumps and bumps. If lumps are found, the cat should be examined by a veterinarian. Nails should be checked and trimmed on a weekly basis. Untrimmed nails have a tendency to curl around, causing self-inflicted injury.

Many elderly cats are prone to dental tartar build-up. Tartar causes bad breath and can lead to dental problems—gum disease and tooth loss. Cats may tolerate a bit of home dentistry like brushing; however, they must be taken to a veterinay hospital for treatment. Treatment generally consists of cleaning and polishing the teeth.

Kidney failure is a very common disease of older cats. This occurs when 70 percent of the kidney’s functions are lost. Early symptoms of kidney failure include weight loss, increased thirst, increased urination (frequency and amount), decreased appetite, and occasional vomiting. Symptoms of kidney failure result from the buildup of toxins in the body, which are normally removed by healthy kidneys.

Specially formulated foods are available for cats that are diagnosed with kidney failure. These foods may be purchased through your veterinarian.

Cancer, usually resulting from feline leukemia virus infection, is commonly diagnosed in elderly cats. The virus is transmitted from an infected cat to a healthy cat through intimate "nose-to-nose" contact with infected saliva. There are no specific symptoms for feline leukemia virus infection; however, tumors of the lymph nodes, kidneys and intestines are quite common. Other symptoms include weight loss, anemia (decrease in red blood cells), poor appetite, vomiting and diarrhea.

Hyperthyroidism is a very common endocrine problem in older cats. Hyperthyroidism is due to an overproduction of thyroid hormone by the thyroid glands (two glands, one gland on each side of the throat). Symptoms associated with hyperthyroidism include drastic weight loss, hyperactivity, and increased appetite. This disease can be treated medically, surgically, or with radiation therapy.

Heart problems are often diagnosed in elderly cats. The most common heart disease is cardiomyopathy. Cardiomyopathy is a primary heart disease, though it can develop secondary to kidney disease and hyperthyroidism.

Diabetes mellitus is a disease that commonly affects older animals. Symptoms of diabetes include increased thirst and increased urination. Animals with diabetes mellitus often have ravenous appetites. Insulin is usually necessary for controlling diabetes mellitus in older cats.

Older cats do not appreciate change. They feel comfortable with the status quo. Environmental changes are not well tolerated. If a vacation or a trip is planned, have someone come to your home to feed your cat. An elderly cat does not do well in a kennel situation.

Since older cats spend most of the day resting, the location of their bed is important. This area should be draft-free, warm, and not damp.

Elderly cats loose some of their ability to digest specific foods. The ability to digest and assimilate fat declines with age. Olfactory (smell) and gustatory (taste) senses are diminished. Food may need to be warmed (not hot) in order to entice an older cat to eat. It is not recommended to give food directly from the refrigerator.

Fresh clean water should be available at all times. The water bowl should be checked and filled at least once a day.

Routine veterinary check-ups, along with blood and urine tests, are important for detecting medical problems before they become emergency situations. Discuss an examination schedule specific to your cat with your veterinarian.

Looking at the results of laboratory tests done on your pet can be very confusing, overwhelming and at times, even frightening. As your pet's care giver, it is important for you to have a general understanding of laboratory tests and what their results mean. This information can be valuable when it comes to deciding medical treatment options that are important as well as available for your pet.

Generally, in order to conduct a test, a sample of your pet's blood and/or urine is collected. Once collected, it can be stored in various kinds of tubes to help preserve the sample and provide the laboratory technicians with a clean specimen.

So what does it mean when your veterinarian says she needs to run some blood work on your pet? Blood work (pre-surgical or otherwise) is usually a combination of a complete blood count (CBC) and a blood chemical analysis. Blood work is a basic evaluation tool. It also helps your veterinarian diagnose a pet's disease or monitor the progression of a disease.

The cellular elements of the blood are examined in the CBC. The CBC determines the number of erythrocytes (red blood cells), the number and type of leukocytes (white blood cells), the number of thrombocytes (platelets), the hemoglobin level and the hematocrit (packed cell volume or PCV). Erythrocytes carry oxygen throughout the body. Leukocytes fight infection and are part of the immune system. There are actually five different types of white blood cells: neutrophils, lymphocytes, basophils, eosinophils, and monocytes. Platelets are clotting proteins and can indicated how fast your pet's blood cans; slow clotting can be a serious problem. A CBC can tell your veterinarian if your pet has an unusual number of red blood cells, white cells or platelets. The numerical values for these cells can indicate if your pet's health is improving or deteriorating.

The results of a chemistry panel can indicate how well your pet's kidney and liver are functioning and the level of electrolytes in the blood. Blood chemistries are run on the fluid portion of the blood sample, not the cells in the blood. The chemistry panel usually includes the following tests, though there can be more: alkaline phosphatase (SAP, ALP), alanine transaminase (ALT), blirubin total (T Bili), blood urea nitrogen (BUN), creatinine and creatinine kinase (CK, CPK), sodium, potassium, glucose, total protein, and albumin. Alkaline phospatase, alanine transaminase, bilirubin, and albumin give your veterinarian information about your pet's liver function. Blood urea nitrogen, creatinine and creatinine kinase give your veterinarian some insight as to how well your pet's kidneys are functioning.

Below are descriptions of each indicator and what an abnormal result could possibly mean. Please note that an isolated abnormal value may not indicate a problem.

Alkaline phosphatase: Used extensively as a tumor marker, it is also present with liver injury, bone injury, pregnancy, or skeletal growth (elevated values). Growing animals have normally higher levels of this enzyme. Low levels are sometimes found in protein deficiency, malnutrition and a number of vitamin deficiencies.

Alanine transaminase: Increased levels are seen in liver damage, kidney infection, chemical pollutants, or myocardial infarction.

Bilirubin (total): Elevated in liver disease, hemolytic anemia, low levels of exposure to the sun and toxic effects to some drugs. Decreased levels are seen in people with an inefficient liver, excessive fat digestion, and possibly a diet low in nitrogen bearing foods.

Blood urea nitrogen: Increases can be caused by excessive protein intake, kidney damage, certain drugs, low fluid intake, intestinal bleeding, exercise, or heart failure. Decreased levels may be due to a poor diet, malabsorption, liver damage, or low nitrogen intake.

Creatinine: Low levels are sometimes seen in kidney damage, protein starvation, liver disease, or pregnancy. Elevated levels are sometimes seen in kidney disease due to the kidneys job of excreting creatinine, muscle degeneration, and some drugs involved in impairment of kidney function.

Glucose: Elevated in diabetes, liver disease, obesity, and pancreatitis due to steroid medications, or during stress. Low levels may be indicative of liver disease, overproduction of insulin, or hypothyroidism.

Total protein: Decreased levels may be due to poor nutrition, liver disease, malabsorption, diarrhea, or severe burns. Increased levels are seen in lupus, liver disease, chronic infections, leukemia, etc.

Albumin: High levels are rarely seen and are primarily due to dehydration. Low levels are seen in poor diets, diarrhea, fever, infection, liver disease, inadequate iron intake, third-degree burns and edemas, and hypocalcemia.

In addition to a blood test, your veterinarian may ask for a urine sample to run a urinalysis. A urinalysis can provide information about several organ systems. The concentration, color, clarity, and mircroscopic examination of the urine sample can help your veterinarian diagnose certain health problems in your pet. Urine may be obtained by catching a sample during normal urination, by passing a catheter into the bladder or by placing a small needle through the body wall into the bladder, a procedure called cystocentesis. Depending upon why the urine sample is being collected, one collection method may be preferred over another.

Color - Urine color will vary between species, but it is normally some shade of yellow depending on the concentration. Abnormal color changes in the urine could be due to drugs, increased urinary pigments or red blood cells. Occasionally, unusual colors may be caused by dyes associated with food or drugs.

Clarity - Urine is normally transparent. In small animals, turbidity or the lack of clarity, suggests the presence of cells, casts, or crystals. Often refrigeration will cause the sedimentation of crystals in the urine, producing a cloudy appearance. This is usually of no significance.

Odor - Urine has a characteristic smell that varies slightly by species and concentration of the sample. A particularly foul odor may occur in the presence of bacteria. Thus, strong smelling urine is common in cases of infection. Sweet smelling urine can also indicate abnormal renal function so it is always important to note any strong odor associated with your pet's urine.

pH - Urine pH will be affected by many things including the diet, handling of the sample, and acid-base balance of your pet. An alkaline pH is most indicative of an infection. Normal pH is between 6 and 8 for most animals depending on their diet.

Glucose - In the normal animal there should not be glucose in the urine. If glucose is present, it is a classic response to hyperglycemia and should instigate an investigation into the possibility of diabetes in the patient.

Ketones - In the normal animal there will be no ketones in the urine. An animal that is undergoing fat metabolism or is deficient in carbohydrates will have ketones in the urine. Ketones may also be found in the urine of malnourished animals or those with diabetes.

Sedimentation - Urine sedimentation may contain cells, casts and crystals and is examined microscopically after centrifugation of the urine sample. A very small amount of all of the above mentioned sediments is normal. Concern begins when any of these components is significantly elevated.

Protein -Finding protein in the urine can be a difficult assessment. Concentrated urine can contain small amounts of proteins. Protein in your pet's urine is generally caused by inflammation, hemorrhage or protein losing kidney disease.

Blood - There should never be blood in the urine of a normal animal. Collection methods could cause blood to appear in the urine but other causes include infection, neoplasia, or trauma.

One of the best ways to strengthen the bond between you and your cat is to play games together. When you play with your cat, you become the most interesting object in his or her life. Not only is playtime fun for your cat, it’s also a great way to get your cat to exercise, both mentally and physically.

Following are six games you can play with your cat. Not every feline will want to play every game on this list, but certainly there are at least a few games here that you and your cat will enjoy. While most of them require objects you may have around the house, there are also a number of toys available that provide the same fun. The key is to actually play with your cat in order to create a fun and lasting relationship with your cat while also keeping them trim and healthy.

Paw Hockey - Play this game in a room with hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors that has at least 10 square feet of free floor space. Break off an eight-inch square of aluminum foil and scrunch it up into a hockey puck shape. (Please remember that foil balls should always be thrown away at the end of the game. They are fine for games, but are not safe for unsupervised play.) Show your cat the puck and then flick it with your fingers so that it goes skittering across the floor. Your cat will then chase after the puck, batting it with his paws and making it scoot from one end of the room to the other. If your cat starts to lose interest in the game, pick up the puck and give it another flick.

Staircase Dash - With your cat at the top of the stairs and you at the bottom, fling a ping pong ball to the top of the staircase, against the side wall, one or two steps in front of where your cat is sitting. The ball bounces down the stairs and your cat should race down the stairs chasing after it. When the ball reaches the bottom of the stairs, probably with your cat just a step behind, fling the ball back up to the top of the staircase. Keep tossing the ball up the steps until your cat gets tired.

Bathtub Scurry - Put a ping pong ball in a clean, dry bathtub. Remove the bottles of shampoo and bars of soap and plug the drain so the ping pong ball doesn’t get lodged there. Put your cat in the bathtub, show him the ping pong ball, and bounce the ball off the side of the bathtub. As the ball bounces around, your cat should chase after it. If the ball starts to slow down, give it a good roll off the side to get it moving again and to keep up your cat’s interest.

Chase the Thing on the String - Get an aluminum foil ball, hollow plastic Whiffle ball, or catnip mouse and tie it to a three-foot piece of twine or heavy string. Pull the string along the floor in front of you, over the cat furniture, or up and down your staircase and let your cat chase after the object. Be sure to allow your cat to capture the object every once in awhile so he/she can feel like a successful predator.

Shadows on the Wall - Turn off the lights in the evening and shine a flashlight on a nearby wall. Dangle bouncy cat toys or other small objects in the light and move them back and forth so their shadows race up and down the wall. Your cat should leap up at the wall trying to catch the elusive prey.

It will be to your benefit to start using this command when your puppy is seven weeks old. The earlier you start letting him know that when you say "come" and he does, the better. Always encourage your puppy to come with enthusiastic praise and lots of encouragement. Keep in mind that no two dogs or puppies are alike, so you will have to adjust your training methods according to the individual dog.

Coming to you when called is a very important command for your dog to learn. The “come” command can prevent your dog from getting hit by a car and allows him or her an opportunity for freedom. Once your dog learns this command, you know you can call him back—in the park, on hiking trails, or anywhere.

Training your dog to come to you every time when called is much more difficult than it sounds. You dog learns very quickly that he can outrun you and that it's more fun to run away. To train your dog, you have to convince him that you're more attractive than even temporary freedom. Training sessions should be short and rewards should always be given.

Until you are confident that your dog completely understands and obeys the come command, it's best to limit his off-leash experiences to places where you won't find it necessary to call him back. A fenced-in yard or small fenced-in park area is ideal, since there's no risk of escape or injury if your dog doesn't return when called.

Reinforcement

It's best to begin training your dog at a very early age, before he becomes fimiliar with total freedom. Restraint and positive reinforcement are the keys to behavior modification.

Since you need something for capturing your dog, should he decide to run away, a lightweight check-type lead is useful and can be purchased at almost any pet supply shop.

Food is an excellent positive reinforcement for most kinds of training. The treat should be given immediately, in order to reinforce the positive behavior. When you feel that your pet is reliable about coming to you, give the reward intermittently. There should, however, be some kind of reward each time your dog successfully completes the command, such as praise, hugs and food.

Gradual Training

Begin by kneeling on the ground and calling your dog's name. Call his name cheerfully, never shouting his name in a hostile manner. Try taking a few steps away from him and see if he follows.

Each time your dog comes, reward him, increase the distance, and start over. Keep these sessions short and fun. Sessions should last 5-10 minutes and they should end on a positive note. Don't get frustrated (your dog will pick up on this immediately) and don't expect too much for the first few days. If your dog seems to be losing interest, stop the session after an easy success. Eventually, when you feel your dog is doing well, try him out in the park or another new place. Remember, don't remove your dog's lead unless you know that he will definitely return to you.

Training Tip

If you scold your dog for not coming, he can associate your impatience with you losing your temper. You need to remain cheerful and enthusiastic because if you don't, coming to you is the last thing on his mind.

"To his dog, every man is Napoleon; hence the constant popularity of dogs."—Aldous Huxley

"Thousands of years ago, cats were worshipped as gods. Cats have never forgotten this."—  Anonymous

"Whoever said you can’t buy happiness forgot about little puppies."—Gene Hill

"Cats are smarter than dogs. You can’t get eight cats to pull a sled through snow."—Jeff Valdez

"Dogs feel very strongly that they should always go with you in the car, in case the need should arise for them to bark violently at nothing right in your ear."—Dave Barry

"Cats are rather delicate creatures and they are subject to a good many ailments, but I never heard of one who suffered from insomnia"—Joseph Krutch

"A dog teaches a boy fidelity, perseverance, and to turn around three times before lying down."—Robert Benchley

"My husband said it was him or the cat...I miss him sometimes."—Unknown

"Outside of a dog, a book is probably man’s best friend, and inside of a dog, it’s too dark to read."—Groucho Marx

"Dogs believe they are human. Cats believe they are God."—Anonymous

"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give the wrong answers."—Unknown

Since dogs generally greet each other through nose-to-nose contact, there is no reason why they shouldn’t do the same thing with people. There are various techniques you can try so your dog won’t jump up on unsuspecting guests. One thing is certain: never pet your dog when he / she jumps on someone. Petting him is a sign of approval and you are sending him a mixed message. Below are three techniques that seem to work very well.

As soon as the dog jumps up, stand tall, look straight ahead, pull your hands up by your chest, say “sit,” and wait for the dog to sit. When the dog does sit, immediately look at the dog, kneel down, and calmly stroke the dog. If the dog jumps up again, stand up and repeat the steps.

The second technique involves standing tall, looking straight ahead, pulling your hands up by your chest, and saying “off”. When the dog jumps on you, turn your body toward the wall so the dog can’t reach your face. Another option is to step back outside the door and close the door in the dog’s face (you need to leave it open a crack). Say “sit.” When the dog sits, turn to face the dog, kneel down, and calmly stroke the dog. If the dog jumps up again, stand up, turn, and repeat the steps.

The third technique is a follows. Stand tall, look straight ahead, pull your hands up by your chest, say “off,” and continue walking into the dog. The dog will jump back to get out of your way. When all feet are on the floor, say “sit” and wait. When the dog sits, kneel down and calmly stroke the dog. If the dog jumps up again, stand up, walk toward him, and repeat the steps.

You should never allow your dog to jump up on people. This can be dangerous, especially if you have a large dog and children are in the vicinity. A puppy eventually grows into a full size dog. Labrador and golden retriever puppies sometimes weigh more than 100 lbs. when they reach full adult size.